CRISP. caught up with Troy Barmore, Senior timepiece specialist at “Analog/Shift” to discuss all things watches.
So Troy, tell us how you first got interested in watches?
“My interest began at a very young age when I saw a dive watch in my local PADI dive shop. The watch itself was nothing special, a chrome digital watch of some sort, but I immediately imagined myself going on all sorts of adventures wearing it. From there, my interest became a full-blown obsession when I took a summer job for the sole purpose of buying my older brother’s Girard-Perregaux chronograph.”
How did Analog/Shift start?
“James Lamdin launched Analog/Shift in 2012. A long-time watch collector, James’ was put off by the way in which the traditional vintage watch market was run. Analog/Shift was positioned to be a new kind of resource for the discerning enthusiast – dedicated to authenticity above all. The goal is to provide a place for both seasoned collectors and complete beginners to come and know that they are getting authentic, correct vintage timepieces.”
What advice would you give to anyone wanting to get into watch collecting?
“Research. Research. Research! Information is your ally in watch collecting. Read as much as you can, from as wide a variety of sources as you can. Find a dealer who you trust and can learn from. Additionally, collector communities like Redbar Group (a global community of watch collectors and enthusiasts) are a wonderful source for like-minded folks – many of whom have learned the do’s and don’ts the hard way so that you don’t have to!”
Would you recommend a solid timepiece/brand they should start with?
“Everyone’s taste is different. So rather than a specific brand, I tell people to shop often but buy rarely. That is to say, look at a lot of different pieces both online and in person. Try things on and see how they make you feel. If they don’t make you giggle, don’t buy it!”
A lot of readers may be stuck on a budget, what do you recommend at under £500/£1,000/£5,000 and £10,000
“Under £500-1000 – The idea that you need to spend a LOT of money to get a great watch is fundamentally untrue. There are a handful of awesome micro brands like Brew, Baltic, and Autodromo make fantastic watches for surprisingly reasonable prices. Additionally, Seiko makes watches at virtually every price point imaginable, from around $70-$70,000.
From £1,000-5,000 – This is where it starts getting fun. Under 1,000, vintage watches can be a little precarious. You can buy a killer looking piece for a couple hundred bucks but then turn around and put three times that into servicing the watch just to get it working correctly. Look at vintage Rolex Datejusts, Omega Seamasters, Universal Geneve Polerouters, and again, Seiko. On the modern side, brands like Oris or Nomos offer huge value.
£10,000 – Here’s where we start to get serious. By this point, you should have a fairly well-formulated sense of what your personal tastes are. With that in mind, especially with regards to vintage timepieces, look for undervalued pieces- mid-century chronographs, lesser-known references from well-known brands.
While Rolex is the undisputed king (especially stainless steel sport models both new and old) two-tone and yellow gold examples are drastically underpriced when compared to their steel counterparts. Relying on your tastes, but also the advice of a trusted dealer is paramount when you start talking about 5 figures and up.”
What’s your most favourite watch you own?
“Oof! This is always a tough question. My Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610 would probably be the last watch I’d ever part with. It was my father’s daily driver for many years. He built 3 houses wearing that watch and beat the heck out if (it even fell off his wrist into a bucket of tile cement once). It’s still ticking. When I graduated from college he gave me the watch. It represents everything I love about watches – the stories they tell.
A close second is my Seiko 6139-6009 ‘Pogue’.”
What’s your dream watch if money wasn’t an option?
“Again, a tough question. On the vintage side, it would be a Rolex GMT Master ref. 1675 gilt chapter ring exclamation point (how’s that for a mouthful?) On the modern side, probably an A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Flyback Chronograph.”
What’s the best “can’t go wrong” watch out there? Brand/movement/price stability?
“It’s a bit of a tired adage, but the ‘best’ watch is the one you love. If you buy what really speaks to you, from a trusted dealer, then you will always do well. If you buy what is hot right now, or what is guaranteed to go up in value and blah blah blah, then you will be at the mercy of a very capricious marketplace. I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again – buy what makes you giggle.”
Do you have a favourite dress/diver/chrono/everydayer?
“The classics are hard to top. Vintage Submariners and vintage Speedmasters are two of the sports watches that can pretty much do it all, from a t-shirt to a tux.”
What are the unwritten rules of watches you urge our readers to follow? e.g. never mod a Rolex, wear the right watch for the occasion.
“We could have a very long conversation on just this question. But for the quick tips/recap –
- Do your research and buy from a trusted dealer.
- In general, avoid sending your vintage pieces back to the manufacturer, they will often replace all of those beautiful patinated components that make a vintage piece special in the first place.
- Don’t polish your watch. The scratches and dings are a badge of honor, wear them with pride!
- Buy what you love, even if it means paying top dollar. Don’t sacrifice your priorities or collecting goals. Save up for the right piece and you won’t regret it.”
Be sure to keep up to date with everything Analog/Shift are up to by following them on vistiting their website.
Instagram : @analogshift
Website : https://analogshift.com/
